Tintypes, Ferrotypes Part Two – how to spot fakes, hopefully.

Most “fakes” are simply honest photographs of reenactors made as a souvenir of a gathering.  The fake part is misrepresentation of age and additional enhancement by placing the photo in a Civil War period case or sticking an original period revenue stamp on the back.

The lowest grade of fake is simply a copied image printed on a computer printer, glued down on a tintype and then lacquered.  These are easy to spot, due to the fact that the thick edge of the paper will be easy to spot and be felt.  This kind of fake is generally used on CDVs, but it does occur on occasion with tintypes.

Poorest type of fake.
Just a piece of thick paper with a laser printed image!
This was sold on eBay.

More sophisticated fakes are made by making a 35 mm slide of an original photo and then via a photographic enlarger exposing the blank tintype with the old image, transferring a unique image onto the plate.  The giveaway is that the image is no longer unique and probably gleaned from a website, eBay, or other photos, or even a book.  Also original processed tintypes will be slightly vignetted and the image will not run right to the edge.

Of course, recasing is another typical way to increase value.  Some dealers may take a good, original photo and place it into a rarer type case to increase the value of both.  Detecting that deceit is much more difficult to prove. Cases can hide clues to a fake as well.  Keep an eye out for modern reproductions of CW period cases.  They can be paired with an original image also.  Just as a note, most tintypes are caseless or have a paper frame, since the cost of a thermoplastic case was generally more expensive than the cost of the tintype when it was new.

An Original Civil War era thermoplastic case

Get familiar with what age and patina on an original tintype might have.  I have seen the gamut from absolutely pristine to bent, worn, emulsion damage, and even rust on both originals and fakes.  Some people paid extra to have brass buttons painted in, blushes added and even backgrounds washed in and uniforms tinted as well.  These areas may often have a raised feeling when touched, although a light wash might not be raised enough to feel.

There are many good dealers and a number of good, modern photographers who are honest and forthright.  Keep an eye out for modern marks and stamps of a contemporary maker.  If you buy, always deal with a known seller of authentic photos who has a verifiable reputation if you want to buy an expensive photo.  There are many good deals out there at flea markets, garage sales and in junk shops, but let your knowledge steer you clear of items that are too good to be true:  tintypes with images of Robert E. Lee, Abraham Lincoln, confederate soldier with dagger, pistol, flag and motto.

Also take into consideration that there were people making tintypes from the late 1850's upuntil well into the 1930's and a few even later.

A circa 1910 swimsuit tintype
with an old fashioned paper frame.

A tintype cameraman in San Antonio, Texas,
Photo by Russell Lee, March, 1939

Use the internet as your tool for research.  There are a number of forums and blogs that talk about original vs fake photography as well as those photographers who make modern photos using 19th century technology who are happy to share their wisdom.  Seek them out.

Here are a few web resources dealing with antique photography.
Photo-sleuth
The Daguerreian Society