Showing posts with label jewelry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jewelry. Show all posts

Saturday, September 14, 2013

William Spratling: A Southern Artist and an Arts and Crafts Revival in Mexican Jewelry


When I say south, I mean waaaay south:  Alabama, Georgia, New Orleans, and finally Mexico City & Taxco.  Most people think of a svelte, urbane jewelry designer with powerful connections to the northeast art and jewelery markets when they look at Spratling jewelry and his designs, but nothing could be farther from the truth. 

classic early jewelry of the jewelry renaissance in Taxco
William Spratling was born in New York State but moved to Alabama to be with his grandfather and later to Atlanta.  Eventually he became an architect and associate professor at Auburn and later at Tulane University in New Orleans.  While in New Orleans he became involved with the Arts and Crafts Club of New Orleans.  He also published a folio of New Orleans architecture in 1923, printed by Tulane University.He also shared a house with William Faulkner in the French Quarter and collaborated with him, writing a book about famous Creoles.  You just can't get more deep south than that.

Spratling was invited to teach some course at the Mexico State National University in 1927-1928 on Spanish Colonial architecture.  He liked Mexico so well, he remained there with the intellectual and artistic community that had also gravitated to Mexico City.  He later moved to Taxco and began to design his unique jewelry starting in 1931.  As an architect and artist, he brought new life to Mexican jewelry, producing not only silver items but those in copper an other materials as well as overseeing production of tinware, furniture, textiles, weavings, and other things of interest at his workshop. 

Other artists of note in Mexico City were Frida Kahlo, Leonora Carrington, Diego Rivera, Manuel Alvarez Bravo just to name a few.  Terrible things were afoot in the countryside with the massacre of clerics by the government of strongman Plutarco Calles.  Leon Trotsky lived and was assisinated in Mexico City – a kind of Casablanca of refugees, artists and desperate people with a cruel government still smoldering from revolution.  All you needed was Rick's Café Américain  and the strains of “As Time Goes By” to set the mood.  Between 1933 and 1945, Mexico accepted Jewish refugees from Europe as well as Spanish refugees from the Spanish Civil War, even Armenians came as well as many others.  Mexico City had become a boiling caldron rather than a melting pot.  Along with the overcrowding and misery, an artistic explosion came from that ancient capital of the Aztecs, who were no strangers to war and strife themselves.  

All that stage setting being said, the subject at hand is a William Spratling necklace in the arts and crafts tradition of early Spratling jewelry with Artemio Navarrete's mark.  On early jewelry, Spratling purposely left some of the file work showing, soldering not ground away smoothly, and a tool marks to appear on the piece such as hammer blows on the inside.  Later Spratling workshop in the late 30s and through the 40s, pieces were more highly polished and the beautiful irregularities of hand-work was smoothed away for a more mass-production look consistent with demand of post-war silver smiths.  Not so with this work, all the labor and care is to be seen by the perceptive collector’s eye.  Later in the 1940s he began to receive contracts for jewelry and it had to be consistent, shiny, and less arts and crafts for the "smart set" buyers in the United States.


This piece is made up of dapped hemispheres, soldered with wire rinks and flat backers.  The two turkey vultures are made free form and with individualistic stamping.  It is finished up with a hand-made chain with a wire hook fastener.   This piece shows variations consistent with individually crafted jewelry   This early period of Spratling jewelry shows traditional Mexican silver making techniques as Spratling employed Mexican silver smiths early on, starting with Artemio Navarrete as his first worker in 1931 who made the first pieces for on Spratling's dining room table with the tools and expertise that he brought from Iguala.  Later Spratling opened a workship added more masters (I will make a later post about them), who then had their apprentices who learning the craft, and perpetuating the art at Taller de Delicias.  Eventually, his workshops employed hundreds of silversmiths, masters, and apprentices all under the watchful eye of William Spratling the designer and architect of his realm.

Of interest on this piece, are the bells which are the traditional casabeles used in early Mexican silverwork with hand sawed openings, typically seen on Spratling pieces.  File and saw marks can be clearly seen on this work, the backers on the hemispheres are clearly made of fine nearly pure platero sheet silver, rolled in-house from ingots purchased directly from Taxco silver mines.  He also probably made his own silver wire at with the same shop.  This is a quite early piece and interestingly with the stamp of maestro Artemio Navarrete, who had been a master gold and silver jeweler in nearby Iguala, about 10 miles down the road who joined Spratling and started the workshop in June of 1931. 

There is a story in circulation that this necklace was inspired by a piece of Aztec descended Náhuatl Indian pottery owned by the American ambassador, Dwight Morrow (1927-1930) in Mexico City.  I have not seen the piece mentioned, but if that is true then the two turkey buzzards (Cozcacuauhtli), which figure into the Aztec religion and calendar, are tearing out the heart of the sun as per Aztec myth but this is just conjecture on my part.  Spratling was to exposed to as well as collected and sold, pre-conquest art as well as colonial and indigenous Indian contemporary art. Spratling was a keen observer of art and architecture throughout Mexico and spanning the whole history of the region so it was not a surprise that he turned to traditional regional designs. 

note Armenio Navarrete mark
I’ve had this piece for about 35 years and every time I take it out, I see new, nuanced things about the Arts and Crafts movement, Mexican craftsmanship, and jeweler's techniques in the early phase of Spratling Jewelry.  I had amassed this information and just wanted to share it with the blogging public, so you can enjoy the mélange of art, history, and craftsmanship of a by-gone period of history and know a bit more about the inspiration, genius and drive of William Spratling.

For reference on a similar piece, see Spratling Silver: A Field Guide by Phyllis Goddard, figure 2-32, page 35.  See also figure 2-162, page 57 and the associated website  http://www.spratlingsilver.com

Additional links of interest on Mexico and Mexican art and politics of the 20-30s
 
Arts and Crafts in New Orleans Video http://knowla.org/video/28/

 
 




Sunday, December 11, 2011

More About Antiques Plus, the New Antique Shop in D'Iberville, MS

The View as One Enters Antiques Plus


The Main Show Room at Antiques Plus


Here are a few images of the  new shop called "Antiques Plus". Located at 10340 D'Iberville Blvd. in D'Iberville, MS.  Located in the heart of D'Iberville on the beautiful Gulf Coast, this shop as you can well see is brightly lit and full of all types of nice quality antiques, vintage,collectable items, and jewelry. The middle of the shop has a number of consignment rooms and the back of shop has furniture.

One of the Consignment Rooms

 
Furniture in the Back Room


Beautiful  Fleur de Lis Handled Uranium glass

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Victorian Civil War Era Swords into plowshares Brooch at South Coast Antiques & Gallery-SOLD

The plow has been a metaphor for the peaceful occupation of mankind since the beginning of agriculture thousands of years ago.  In the Bible Isaiah 2:4 says, “They will beat their swords into plowshares and their spears into pruning hooks. Nation will not take up sword against nation, nor will they train for war anymore.”


This gold over lay pin is a perfect example of a mid 19th century peace movement brooch.  It shows a Victorian era plow merged with a saber or sword.  Overlaid on the plow is a peace lily and where the sword meets the plow is a garnet, which in Victorian iconography and jewelry indicates both blood and mourning, which is very appropriate and appear on many Georgian and pre 1860 mourning jewelry items.

The first peace movement documented was a satirical work by the ancient Greek playwright Aristophanes. Titled Lysistrata it was weitten around 441 B.C. protesting the Peloponnesian War.  In the United States, peace societies began to appear starting just after the War of 1812 to the present.  The 1840s saw such literary types as Ralph Waldo Emerson and David Thoreau broaden the appeal of peace groups.  Even during the American Civil War, there was a small peace movement.  After the Civil War peace groups re-emerged from hiatus and continued on to the present time, sometimes blurring the distinction between peace movement and anti-war movement.

Plowshares were not always a peaceful tool as seen it could also sow war as in the dreaded monster Hydra, killed by Hercules as his second of twelve labors in ancient Greek legend.  The Romans used the plow as a weapon and plowed up the Phoenician capital of Carthage after the Third Punic War in 146 B.C. and sowed salt to ensure that nothing would grow in that spot again. 

The plow has been around since humans began to use agriculture some 8,000 years ago, propelling us into the modern age.  The concept in ancient times was that metal was precious and thus was used and reused in various ways, both in war and peace and making that transformation a metaphor for peace. 

This scarce historic jewel is available for viewing at South Coast Antiques & Gallery in Ocean Springs,MS

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Collecting Cut Out Coins and Cut Out Coin Jewelry

 Lately we have been picking up a type of jewelry that doesn’t turn up often.  It is coins that have had the background meticulously cut out leaving the highlights and words intact.  Older version of this type of work generally have a fancy decorative bezel soldered to the coin and a jewelry quality pin attached to the back.  When you wear the coin jewelry, your clothing shows through from the back, enhancing the jewelry.  Cut out coins began to be popular in the late 1890s as charms and sweetheart pins.

A Fine Example of Cut Out Coin Jewelry. A Pin Crafted from a 1862 Swiss Silver Coin

Fine saw blades for cut out work on sheet silver had been around for centuries, but generally unavailable outside of craftsman and silversmith shops.  They don’t appear for use by casual or itinerant craftsmen until the early 1900s.  The invention of an inexpensive, super fine saw blade made it possible for craftsmen to risk breaking a blade to make an inexpensive piece of coin jewelry

These cut out coins are also collected by some coin collectors of exonuma, along with sweetheart tokens, which are in the same category.  Modern cut outs can be enhanced with gold plated accents  

Cutting coins is difficult due to the thickness of the material, compared to cutting thinner sheet silver and the additional harness of the alloyed silver also increases the chance of the very fine blade of the saw snapping.  Coin fineness can vary from 90% pure down to 72% pure.  The more alloy, the harder the material and the more difficult it is to cut as you increase thickness. 

An experienced eye and a skilled craftsman is required for this difficult work.  The craftsman must plan where the cuts will be made and plan out where relief holes will be drilled for each set of cuts.  He must decide not only where to cut, but how the overall removal will enhance the beauty of the final work.

The holes drilled must be only slightly larger than the saw blade because the blade must be threaded through the hole before being reattached to the saw frame.  The blade is also about the size of a thick hair and very prone to snapping if even the slightest twisting or uneven pressure is made.  One source indicated that 20 to 40 holes must be drilled and the same number of blade inserts and connections to the frame are made.  The most intricate pieces may take over 100 to 150 cuts to complete the work.  Each piece takes hours to finish and the most complex might take up to 15 hours from start to finish, in cases where full legends and date are cut out..  The coin is then polished. Then any soldering for a pin or bail done and a final clean up and polish to complete the work. 

We are more familiar with pieces cut out in the late 1960s and early 1970s from craft fairs and made sometimes by itinerant hippies.  Although they produced some good work, they were not always masterpieces of advanced craftsmen.  In fact, they often didn’t have an aded pin or bail soldered on and a simple cord was used for wear.

Look for pieces with intricate cut outs. For example, there are a lot of letters and numbers are cut out, and soldered on decorative border and a good quality pin or bail for wearing.  It’s not always about age and some new pieces are so intricate and involved, they are more expensive than a vintage item.  Newer pieces may also have gold plating in areas for accents.  Watch out for cast copies of good pieces masquerading as originals.  You will see a line around the rim that shows it was cast and not a coin as well as a blurriness deep within the cutouts around the letters.  Generally these inexpensive copies are made of pewter or lead.

Remember, attention to detail will save you a lot of money and disappointment no matter what you collect.  Buy what you like and don’t worry too much about buying for investment.  The great thing about cut out coins is that you can wear them and they make a great fashion statement about your collecting.

EXAMPLES Available at South Coast Antiques & Gallery 


U.S. silver dollar die cut by machine note lack of soldering (see comments section)
Cut Out 1920's U.S. Morgan Silver Dollar


1920's U.S. Morgan Silver Dollar
Fashioned into a Necklace with Sterling Beads and Light Blue Dragon Skin Agate.


A Dutch sweetheart pin, probably made for American military members in WWII, circa late war.
Crafted From Dutch Silver Coins




Guatemala coin bracelet made up of alternate cut out coins from the late 1800's.  
This work probably dates in the 1920's or 30's.


Tiny Silver 1 Real Coins From Guatemala
UPDATE 1 May 1014:  Buyers beware of laser cut coins being sold as hand cut coins in the past few years.  The coin is scanned and then a computer guided laser cuts out designated areas.  They are pretty and they started life as a coin, but don't fit the definition of hand-made by any means.  Also read the comment section below about a discussion about die-cut coins.  Also note our previous photos below of a base metal cast pseudo coin.  The lead ones are soft and easily bent.  The fact that they are silver plated can lead the unwary to believe they are coin silver.

Fake Bahamas cut out coin made of cast lead.of no actual value.